Which type of Vitamin C serum is best for skin?

You know vitamin C is fantastic for the skin. And would love to get the wonderful results from it but very confused as to which Vitamin C Serum is the best for your skin type. Here is detailed information on forms of vitamin C. Check which form of Vitamin C does your product contain.

4 Common forms of Vitamin C in Skincare Products

Helps With Other Issues

Ascorbic Acid

  • Sun Damage
  • Wrinkles
  • Pigmentation
  • Low ph causes Stinging
  • Unstable, use within 3 months
  • Absorption is low

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate  / Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate  

  • Sun Damage
  • Wrinkles
  • Pigmentation
  • Absorption is Good
  • Stable for 7 months

Ascorbyl Palmitate

  • Sun Damage
  • Wrinkles
  • Pigmentation
  • Water formulas are Low ph, may cause Stinging
  • Absorption is average
  • Stable for a longer time
Ascorbyl Tetra-Isopalmitate 
  • Sun Damage
  • Wrinkles
  • Pigmentation
  • Very Expensive
  • Absorption is very Good
  • Not suitable for Sensitive Skin
  • Stable for a longer time

Ascorbic Acid

Most Serums in the market are made of Ascorbic Acid. It is water soluble, so you find it in watery serums. It has a low pH around 3.5 which exfoliates skin and such low pH can be irritating (Human Skin pH is around 5-6). So if you have hyperpigmentation and sensitive skin, it can further exfoliate skin and cause more problem. But if your skin can tolerate exfoliation it will give good results. Believe me, exfoliation is good for most skins except sensitive. One more problem with ascorbic acid is penetration. For an ingredient to work it has to penetrate the skin. Skin is made up of oil membranes so oils penetrate the skin better than water. Since ascorbic acid is water soluble, its penetration is less. The serum made with this form of Vitamin C slowly loses its potency 2 months after the product is made. So check the manufacturing dates

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate / Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate ( SAP/ MAP )

Skin cells take in select minerals that they need for their normal metabolism. So Ascorbic acid is combined with Sodium or Magnesium so that it is absorbed better into the cells. Hence you might also need less concentrations of Vit C in these forms. But this form of Vitamin C is also more expensive than ascorbic acid. Another advantage of SAP/MAP is that the pH of these serums will be 6-7 which is much closer to skin pH hence it's not at all irritating. The serum made with this form of Vitamin C slowly loses its potency 2 months after the product is made.

Ascorbyl Palmitate

It is oil soluble hence penetrates well into the skin. It can be found in both oil serums and also water serums. If it is in water serums, the pH is very low around 3.5, which can be irritating to the skin

Ascorbyl Tetra-Isopalmitate (VC-IP)

Its Oil Soluble penetrates the best into the skin, so you can get up to ten times more active vitamin C into the cell itself.  Also, it's extremely expensive. One drawback with this form of Vitamin C is that it is not suitable on sensitive skin.  You don't want ingredients delivered into skin cells all at once.

 


Questions you need to ask before you finalize on your Vitamin C:

Q1. What is the % of Vitamin C in the product? 

Some products which call themselves Vitamin C serums have less than 5% or sometimes even low due to the costs. How can you identify, Vitamin C should be listed within the first 3 ingredients of the product. 

Also, which form of Vitamin C has used matters because they absorb into the cells at different rates and perform differently.  

May Be, 5% Ascorbyl Tetra-Isopalmitate equal to 10%Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate equal to 15% Ascorbic Acid (the percentages are not proven by studies, but assumed for comparison)

Q2. When is it manufactured?

 

  • Ascorbic Acid - use within 2 months from manufacture
  • Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate - use within 2 months from manufacture
  • Ascorbyl Tetra-Isopalmitate Use within 1.5 years from manufacture

 

Q3. Is it water based / silicon base/oil based?

All forms of Vitamin C can be found in water-based serums. But some Serums can be found in oil-based like Ascorbyl Tetra-Isopalmitate and Ascorbyl Palmitate. Some are made in silicone base to improve stablility esp Ascorbic Acid. So its a personal preference if you like Silicon base, oil base or Water Base.

 

Conclusion

Now you know which kind of Vitamin C is best for you, go ahead and confidently select and buy your Vitamin C. If you need any further questions please don't hesitate to ask.

Note: Suganda Anti Oxidant Serum is made with 10% Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate which is much more expensive than Ascorbic acid and more stable and skin friendly pH and more bioavailable to the skin cell.  



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